The Public Herbarium

Eucalyptus, showing leaves and flowers

Guide to Plant-Based Scents: The Deep Dive

Comprehensive guide covering natural perfumery covering volatile oil chemistry, extraction methods, note classifications, fixative functions, and formulation principles. Western formulation science for plant-based scents.

Table of Contents

  1. The Philosophy & History of Whole-Plant Perfumery
  2. The Science of Plant Aromatics
  3. Extraction Methods: Complete Technical Guide
  4. The Art of Scent Composition
  5. Advanced Personal Scent Formulations
  6. Sophisticated Home Scent Techniques
  7. Natural Fixatives & Longevity
  8. NZ-Specific Botanicals for Scenting
  9. Troubleshooting & Optimisation
  10. Safety, Storage & Shelf Life

The Philosophy & History of Whole-Plant Perfumery

Historical Context

Before the invention of essential oil distillation in the 10th century CE, all perfumery was whole-plant perfumery. Ancient Egyptians, Greeks, Romans, and early Arab perfumers created sophisticated fragrances using methods we’ll explore in this guide:

Enfleurage (fat extraction) was used in ancient Egypt and perfected in 18th-century Grasse, France, to capture the scent of delicate flowers like jasmine and tuberose that couldn’t withstand heat distillation.

Maceration (alcohol or oil extraction) was used by Roman perfumers to create scented oils and unguents, documented in Pliny the Elder’s Natural History (77 CE).

Pomanders and Potpourri (dry scenting) date back to medieval Europe, where dried herbs, spices, and fixatives were combined to scent living spaces and protect against “bad air.”

Why Whole-Plant Perfumery Matters Today

The Science of Plant Aromatics

What Creates Plant Scent?

Plants produce aromatic compounds for specific biological purposes: attracting pollinators, repelling pests, protecting against UV radiation, or communicating with other plants. We experience these compounds as “scent.”

Classes of Aromatic Compounds

1. Terpenes & Terpenoids

These are the largest class of plant aromatic compounds, built from isoprene units (C₅H₈).

Monoterpenes (C₁₀H₁₆):

Sesquiterpenes (C₁₅H₂₄):

Diterpenes (C₂₀H₃₂):

Why This Matters: Understanding the volatility of different compounds helps you design scent blends that evolve over time, with top notes fading first, middle notes emerging, and base notes lingering longest.

2. Phenylpropanoids

These are aromatic compounds derived from the amino acid phenylalanine.

Examples:

Why This Matters: Phenylpropanoids are fixatives—they last longer and can help anchor more volatile compounds, extending the life of your scent blends.

3. Esters

These are compounds formed when an alcohol reacts with a carboxylic acid.

Structure: R-COO-R’ Volatility: High

Examples:

Why This Matters: Esters create the “fresh” quality in many floral and fruity scents. They’re highly volatile, so they provide immediate impact but fade quickly unless fixed.

4. Aldehydes

These are compounds with a carbonyl group (C=O) bonded to a hydrogen atom.

Structure: R-CHO Volatility: High

Examples:

Why This Matters: Aldehydes create sharp, bright, “clean” scents. They’re incredibly powerful—a small amount goes a long way.

5. Ketones

These are compounds with a carbonyl group (C=O) bonded to two carbon atoms.

Examples:

Why This Matters: Ketones provide intensity and character but can be overwhelming. Use sparingly in blends.

Solubility & Extraction Principles

“Like Dissolves Like”

This fundamental chemistry principle determines which extraction method works for which compounds:

Non-Polar Compounds (Like Terpenes):

Why This Matters: You cannot extract all aromatic compounds using a single method. Water will capture different compounds than fat, and alcohol will capture a broader spectrum than either. For the most complete scent profile, combination methods work best.

Extraction Methods: Complete Technical Guide

Method 1: Enfleurage (Fat Extraction)

Principle: Volatile aromatic compounds diffuse from fresh plant material into odorless fat over time.

Best For: Delicate flowers (rose, jasmine, gardenia, tuberose) that would be damaged by heat or alcohol.

Traditional Enfleurage (Cold):

Materials Needed:

Process:

  1. Prepare Fat Base: Spread a thin layer (3-5mm) of odorless fat on a glass plate or in a shallow dish.
  2. Add Plant Material: Press fresh flowers or leaves gently into the fat. They should be in contact but not completely submerged.
  3. Cover: Place in a cool, dark place. Cover loosely to prevent dust but allow moisture to escape.
  4. Replace Plant Material: Every 24-48 hours, remove spent flowers and replace with fresh ones. The fat gradually becomes saturated with aromatic compounds.
  5. Duration: Continue for 1-3 weeks, or until the fat is strongly scented.
  6. Final Product: This scented fat is called “pomade.” It can be used as-is for solid perfumes or further processed.

To Extract Absolute from Pomade:

Why This Works: Fat molecules are non-polar and have high affinity for the non-polar terpenes and other aromatic compounds in flowers. As these compounds evaporate from the flower, they immediately dissolve into the adjacent fat.

NZ Application:

Hot Enfleurage (Maceration in Fat):

A faster, heat-assisted version.

Process:

  1. Prepare: Fill a jar 2/3 full with fresh or dried aromatic plant material.
  2. Add Fat: Cover completely with liquid oil (jojoba, fractionated coconut, or light olive oil).
  3. Heat Gently: Place jar in a warm water bath (40-50°C) for 2-4 hours. Do not exceed 50°C, as this degrades aromatic compounds.
  4. Strain & Repeat: Strain out plant material. Add fresh material to the same oil. Repeat 3-5 times for a strongly scented oil.

Best For: Robust herbs (lavender, rosemary, rose petals, mint)

Why This Works: Gentle heat increases the kinetic energy of molecules, speeding up the diffusion of aromatic compounds into the fat while staying below the temperature that would damage them.

Method 2: Alcohol Maceration (Tincture Method)

Principle: Alcohol is an excellent solvent for both polar and non-polar aromatic compounds.

Best For: Creating scent concentrates, room sprays, and alcohol-based perfumes.

Materials Needed:

Process:

Prepare Plant Material: Fresh: Chop roughly to increase surface area – Dried: Crush or grind lightly

Fill Jar: Pack jar 1/2 to 2/3 full with plant material (more for dried, less for fresh due to water content)

Add Alcohol: Cover plant material completely, ensuring all parts are submerged

Macerate: Seal jar and place in a cool, dark place for 2-6 weeks
Shake daily for first week – Then shake every few days

Strain: Pour through coffee filter or muslin. Squeeze to extract all liquid.

Optional – Second Extraction: Add the scented alcohol to fresh plant material for a stronger extraction. Repeat for ultra-concentrated scent.

Concentration by Evaporation:

Alcohol Percentages & Their Effects:

40% Alcohol (Standard Vodka):

50-60% Alcohol:

95% Alcohol (Ethanol):

Why This Matters: Higher alcohol content extracts more compounds faster, but even 40% vodka works well for most applications.

Method 3: Hydrosol Creation (Water Extraction)

Principle: Steam or boiling water carries volatile aromatic compounds, which can be collected.

Best For: Fresh, immediate scents for room sprays and linen waters.

Simple Stovetop Method:

Materials:

Process:

  1. Setup: Place an inverted heat-safe bowl in the centre of the pot. Add fresh herbs around (not in) the bowl.
  2. Add Water: Pour water into the pot until it’s just below the rim of the bowl.
  3. Create Condensation: Invert the pot lid so it slopes toward the centre. Place ice on top of the inverted lid.
  4. Simmer: Heat to a gentle simmer. The steam rises, hits the cold lid, condenses, and drips into the bowl.
  5. Collect: After 30-60 minutes, the bowl will contain scented water (hydrosol).

Limitations: This method produces a dilute hydrosol compared to commercial steam distillation, but it’s free and uses only plants and water.

Best Uses: Room sprays, facial mists, linen waters

NZ Application:

Method 4: Dry Fixation (Classical Potpourri)

Principle: Dried plant material slowly releases aromatic compounds over time. Fixatives extend this release.

Advanced Potpourri with Fixatives:

Materials:

Process (Traditional Method):

  1. Prepare Botanicals: Ensure all plant material is thoroughly dried and crisp.
  2. Create Fixative Blend: In a large bowl, combine:
  3. 2 tablespoons orris root powder per 4 cups dried botanicals – 1 tablespoon benzoin resin powder per 4 cups dried botanicals
  4. Coat Botanicals: Add dried herbs, flowers, and spices to the fixative powder. Toss thoroughly to coat every piece.
  5. Cure: Seal in a paper bag or lidded container for 2-6 weeks, shaking every few days. This “curing” allows the fixatives to absorb the scents and then slowly release them.
  6. Display: Place in open bowls, jars, or sachets.

Why This Works: Fixatives are substances with large, complex molecules that evaporate very slowly. They absorb smaller, more volatile scent molecules and release them gradually, extending the life of the potpourri from weeks to months.

Scientific Mechanism:

Orris root contains irones (C₁₄H₂₂O), large ketones that evaporate slowly and mechanically trap smaller terpenes, releasing them over time. Benzoin resin contains benzyl benzoate and cinnamic acid esters, which similarly extend scent longevity.

The Art of Scent Composition

The Scent Pyramid

Traditional perfumery uses a three-tier structure based on volatility:

Top Notes (Head Notes):

Middle Notes (Heart Notes):

Base Notes (Foundation):

Classical Proportions:
A balanced scent typically follows this ratio by volume or intensity:

Top Notes: 15-25%

Middle Notes: 40-60%

Base Notes: 20-35%

Why This Matters: A scent that’s all top notes will smell amazing immediately but fade in minutes. A scent that’s all base notes will smell heavy and take hours to develop. The pyramid creates a scent that evolves gracefully over time.

Scent Families & Blending Principles

Floral Family:

Citrus Family:

Herbaceous Family:

Spice Family:

Woody/Resinous Family:

Blending Principles:

1. Start Simple Begin with 2-3 plants from different families:

2. Build Complexity Gradually Add one element at a time, testing after each addition.

3. Use Odd Numbers Traditional perfumers often use 3, 5, or 7 components for balanced complexity.

4. Account for Intensity Some plants are much more potent than others:

5. Consider Context

Advanced Personal Scent Formulations

Formula 1: Traditional Solid Perfume (Enfleurage-Style)

Goal: Create a complex, long-lasting solid perfume with three-note structure.

Materials:

Ratio:

Example Formulation – “Rose Garden”:

Base Scented Oil (created through hot enfleurage):

Additions to Final Balm:

Process:

  1. Melt beeswax and scented oil together at 70°C.
  2. Remove from heat, let cool to 60°C.
  3. Stir in benzoin and vanilla.
  4. Pour into tins, let solidify.

Result: A solid perfume with:

Formula 2: Alcohol-Based Perfume (Extrait de Parfum)

Goal: Create a long-lasting, complex alcohol-based perfume.

Materials:

Example Formulation – “Forest Morning”:

Maceration 1 – Top Notes (2 weeks):

Maceration 2 – Middle Notes (3 weeks):

Maceration 3 – Base Notes (4-6 weeks):

Blending:

Strain all three macerations.

Combine in proportions:

Why Aging Matters: Alcohol perfumes undergo chemical changes over time. Esters hydrolyse, new compounds form, and the scent “rounds out,” becoming smoother and more integrated.

Formula 3: Scent Layering System

Concept: Instead of one perfume, create a system of complementary products.

Component 1 – Scented Body Oil:

Component 2 – Solid Perfume:

Component 3 – Hair Mist:

Result: Three products that work together, creating a complex, evolving scent that lasts all day.

Sophisticated Home Scent Techniques

Formula 1: Scent Pyramid Simmer Pot

Concept: Design a simmer pot blend that evolves over hours, with a complete scent structure.

Example – “Winter Hearthside”:

Top Notes (First 15 minutes):

Middle Notes (15-60 minutes):

Base Notes (After 60 minutes):

Process:

  1. Add all ingredients to pot with 3 cups water.
  2. Simmer gently.
  3. As water evaporates and heat continues, different compounds release at different rates, creating an evolving scent experience.

Why It Works: This mimics perfume composition. The volatile citrus hits immediately, the middle spices develop as the pot warms, and the heavy base notes persist even after you turn off the heat.

Formula 2: Reed Diffuser with Whole-Plant Extract

Concept: Create a long-lasting, passive diffuser without essential oils.

Materials:

Formula:

Example – “Lavender & Lemon”:

Base Maceration:

Diffuser Blend:

Process:

  1. Combine all liquids in bottle.
  2. Insert 5-8 reeds or bamboo skewers.
  3. Flip reeds every few days to refresh scent.

Longevity: 2-3 months

Why It Works: The alcohol helps the scent diffuse up the reeds, while the oil slows evaporation. The benzoin fixative extends the life of the more volatile compounds.

Formula 3: Fixative-Enhanced Long-Lasting Potpourri

Concept: Create potpourri that actively scents a room for months.

Materials:

Example – “Spiced Citrus Garden”:

Botanical Base:

Fixative Blend:

Process:

  1. Combine fixatives in a large sealable bag.
  2. Add all botanicals.
  3. Seal and shake vigorously to coat every piece.
  4. Cure sealed in the bag for 4-6 weeks, shaking every 3-4 days.
  5. Display in open bowls or breathable fabric bags.

Scientific Basis:
The large, slowly-evaporating molecules in orris root (irones, C₁₄H₂₂O) and benzoin (benzyl benzoate, cinnamic acid esters) physically trap smaller terpenes and aldehydes from the other botanicals. As the fixatives slowly evaporate, they release these smaller molecules gradually, extending scent life from 2-3 weeks (unfixed) to 3-6 months (fixed).

Formula 4: Herbal Linen & Ironing Water

Concept: Traditional scented water for freshening linens.

Materials:

Example – “Fresh Linen Spray”:

Preparation:

Shelf Life: 2-3 months refrigerated (the vodka and lemon juice prevent mold)

Natural Fixatives & Longevity

Understanding Fixatives

What They Are: Substances with very low volatility that extend the life of more volatile aromatic compounds.

How They Work:

  1. Physical Trapping: Large molecules mechanically trap smaller ones
  2. Chemical Binding: Some fixatives form weak bonds with aromatic compounds
  3. Evaporation Retardation: Creating a “matrix” that slows overall evaporation

Common Natural Fixatives

Orris Root (Iris germanica, Iris pallida)

botanical drawing of Orris (Iris germanica)
Orris (Iris germanica)

NZ Availability: Specialty herb suppliers, online ($15 NZD-25 NZD per 100g)

Preparation: Must age 2-3 years after drying to develop irones (fresh root has little scent)

Benzoin Resin (Styrax benzoin)

Benzoin (Styrax spp.) flowers and lev]aves
Benzoin (Styrax spp.)

NZ Availability: Health food stores, incense suppliers ($8 NZD-15 NZD per 50g)

Forms:

To Make Benzoin Tincture:

  1. Crush resin into small pieces
  2. Cover with 95% alcohol (1 part resin : 5 parts alcohol)
  3. Let sit 2-4 weeks, shaking daily
  4. Strain (will be amber-coloured and slightly syrupy)

Oakmoss (Evernia prunastri)

Oakmoss (Evernia prunastri) showing details of foliage
Oakmoss (Evernia prunastri)

IMPORTANT SAFETY NOTE: Oakmoss is a known allergen. The International Fragrance Association (IFRA) restricts its use. Use very sparingly, test for reactions, and avoid if you have sensitive skin.

NZ Availability: Specialty perfume suppliers ($20 NZD-30 NZD per 25g)

Vetiver Root (Vetiveria zizanioides)

close up of Vetiver (Vetiveria zizanioides)
Vetiver (Vetiveria zizanioides)

NZ Availability: Online herb suppliers ($10 NZD-18 NZD per 50g)

Preparation: Chop or grind before use to increase surface area

Vanilla Bean (Vanilla planifolia)

Vanilla (Vanilla planifolia) dried beans
Vanilla (Vanilla planifolia)

NZ Availability: Supermarkets (whole beans $8 NZD-15 NZD per 2-3 beans)

Creating Your Own Fixative Blend

All-Purpose Potpourri Fixative:

Use: 3-4 tablespoons per 4 cups potpourri

Masculine Scent Fixative:

Floral Scent Fixative:

NZ-Specific Botanicals for Scenting

Native Plants (Use with Cultural Respect)

Important Cultural Context:

Many native New Zealand plants, particularly those used in rongoā Māori, are taonga (treasured) and have deep cultural significance. Before using native plants for scenting:

  • 1. Understand the cultural context – Research whether the plant has significance in rongoā Māori or Māori tradition
  • 2. Harvest responsibly – Only take what you need, never from conservation areas
  • 3. Seek permission – For harvesting on private land or Māori land
  • 4. Give back – Consider supporting native plant nurseries or conservation efforts

Kawakawa (Piper excelsum)

leaves of kawakawa (Piper excelsum) plant
Kawakawa (Piper excelsum)

Cultural Significance: Taonga plant in rongoā Māori, sacred and highly valued

Scent Profile: Peppery, earthy, warming with slight bitterness

Parts for Scenting: Dried leaves

Aromatic Compounds: Myristicin (phenylpropanoid), sesquiterpenes

Best Uses:

Respectful Use:

  • Use only leaves from trees you have permission to harvest
  • Never strip a plant – take 1-2 leaves per tree maximum
  • Acknowledge the plant’s significance and give thanks
  • Do not use commercially without understanding cultural implications

Scent Blending:

Mānuka (Leptospermum scoparium)

leaves and flowers of mānuka (Leptospermum scoparium)
Mānuka (Leptospermum scoparium)

Cultural Significance: Important in rongoā Māori, culturally valued

Scent Profile: Honey-like, medicinal, slightly sweet with aromatic intensity

Parts for Scenting:

Aromatic Compounds:

Best Uses:

Harvest Notes:

Scent Blending:

Kānuka (Kunzea ericoides)

Kānuka (Kunzea ericoides) leaves and flowers
Kānuka (Kunzea ericoides)

Scent Profile: Softer than mānuka, honey-like with floral sweetness

Parts for Scenting: Flowers, small branch tips

Aromatic Compounds: Similar to mānuka but gentler, less triketones

Best Uses:

Often Confused With: Mānuka – distinguish by softer leaves and later flowering (often into summer)

Horopito (Pseudowintera colorata)

leaves of horopito (pseudowintera colorata)
Horopito (Pseudowintera colorata)

Cultural Significance: Traditional medicinal plant

Scent Profile: Intensely peppery, spicy, hot

Parts for Scenting: Dried leaves (use very sparingly)

Aromatic Compounds: Polygodial (sesquiterpene dialdehyde – responsible for hot, peppery sensation)

Best Uses:

Tiny amounts in masculine potpourri

Spicy depth in complex blends

Sachets for insect deterrent

Caution: Very intense – use 1/10th the amount you’d use of other herbs

Makomako (Aristotelia serrata) – Wineberry

Makomako (Aristotelia serrata) unripe berries
Makomako (Aristotelia serrata)

Scent Profile: Flowers are sweetly fragrant (when in bloom, spring-summer)

Parts for Scenting: Fresh flowers

Best Uses:

Naturalised & Easily Cultivated Plants in NZ

Lemon Verbena (Aloysia citrodora)

Lemon Verbena (Aloysia citrodora) showing leaves
Lemon Verbena (Aloysia citrodora)

NZ Growing: Thrives in warm regions (North Island), needs protection in South Island

Scent Profile: Most intensely lemony of all plants

Parts for Scenting: Leaves

Best Uses:

Availability: Specialty herb nurseries ($10 NZD-15 NZD per plant)

Pine (Pinus radiata – Radiata Pine)

Pine (Pinus radiata) showing needles and cones
Pine (Pinus radiata)

Status: Naturalised, abundant in plantations

Scent Profile: Fresh, forest, clean

Parts for Scenting: Needles, small branch tips

Aromatic Compounds: α-pinene, β-pinene, limonene

Best Uses:

Harvest: Collect from fallen branches or ask permission at plantation edges

Free and Abundant: Excellent budget option

Eucalyptus (Various species)

Eucalyptus, showing leaves and flowers
Eucalyptus

Status: Naturalised in many areas, common in older gardens

Scent Profile: Medicinal, fresh, camphoraceous

Parts for Scenting: Leaves

Species in NZ:

Best Uses:

Pairs With: Lemon, rosemary, lavender

Rose Geranium (Pelargonium graveolens)

Rose Geranium (Pelargonium graveolens) flowers and leaves
Rose Geranium (Pelargonium graveolens)

NZ Growing: Thrives in most regions, easy in pots

Scent Profile: Rosy with green, slightly minty notes

Parts for Scenting: Leaves (not flowers)

Best Uses:

Why It’s Valuable: Fresh roses are seasonal, but rose geranium provides rose-like scent year-round. Leaves are easy to dry and store.

Availability: Garden centres ($8 NZD-12 NZD per plant)

Troubleshooting & Optimisation

Common Issues with Solutions

Issue: Scented oil/pomade has no scent after weeks of infusion

Possible Causes:

  1. Not enough plant material (jar should be 2/3 full minimum)
  2. Plant material wasn’t aromatic to begin with (old, improperly dried)
  3. Wrong extraction method for the compounds present

Solutions:

Issue: Alcohol maceration smells like alcohol, not plants

Possible Causes:

  1. Maceration time too short
  2. Not enough plant material
  3. Alcohol percentage too low (too much water)

Solutions:

Issue: Potpourri loses scent within days

Possible Causes:

  1. No fixatives used
  2. Improper curing process
  3. Displayed in too-warm or sunny location

Solutions:

Issue: Simmer pot scent fades very quickly

Possible Causes:

  1. All top notes, no base notes
  2. Not enough plant material
  3. Heat too high (volatilising everything at once)

Solutions:

Issue: Scent is overpowering/gives headaches

Possible Causes:

  1. Too much concentrated material
  2. Using very intense herbs (clove, cinnamon) without balance
  3. Poor ventilation

Solutions:

Issue: Mould growing in oil infusion

Possible Causes:

  1. Fresh plant material with too much water content
  2. Plant material not fully submerged
  3. Contamination during process

Solutions:

Issue: Alcohol maceration is cloudy/sediment forms

Explanation: This is normal! Plant waxes, resins, and proteins create cloudiness.

Solutions:

Safety, Storage & Shelf Life

Safety Guidelines

Skin Safety:

Patch Testing:
Before using any new scented product on skin:

  1. Apply small amount to inside of wrist or elbow
  2. Wait 24 hours
  3. Check for redness, itching, or irritation
  4. If reaction occurs, do not use

Common Allergens in Plant Scents:

Safe Dilution for Skin Application:

Pregnancy & Nursing:

Herbs to Avoid in High Concentrations:

Generally Safe for Scenting (Not Therapeutic Use):

Recommendation: Keep all scenting subtle during pregnancy. What smells pleasant before pregnancy can be overwhelming during.

Children & Infants:

Under 3 months:

3 months – 2 years:

Over 2 years:

Pets:

Cats:

Dogs:

Birds:

General Pet Rule: If scenting gives you a headache, it’s overwhelming for pets. Keep subtle.

Storage Guidelines

Dried Herbs:

Scented Oils:

Alcohol Macerations:

Solid Perfumes:

Hydrosols:

Potpourri:

Maximising Scent Longevity

For Stored Materials:

  1. Minimise Air Exposure: Open containers only when needed
  2. Control Temperature: Every 10°C increase roughly doubles degradation rate
  3. Block Light: UV degrades aromatic compounds
  4. Control Humidity: Moisture causes mold, dilutes scents

For Displayed Scents:

  1. Rotate Display: Use potpourri for 2-3 weeks, then seal and “rest” it for 1 week
  2. Refresh Regularly: Add new fixative blend or fresh botanicals every 1-2 months
  3. Location Matters: North-facing windowsills (indirect light) better than direct sun

For Personal Scents:

  1. Layer Products: Scented oil + solid perfume lasts longer than either alone
  2. Apply to Clothing: Scent lasts longer on fabric than skin
  3. Pulse Points: Wrists, behind ears, inside elbows (heat releases scent)
  4. Hair: Holds scent longer than skin (use mists, not oils)

Advanced Techniques & Considerations

Creating Signature Scents

Building a Personal Scent Identity:

Step 1: Identify Your Scent Preferences

Step 2: Determine Your Scent Family

Step 3: Create Your Signature Base

Example Personal System:

Result: A family of scents that are recognisably “yours” but suited to different contexts.

Seasonal Scenting Practices

Spring:

Summer:

Autumn:

Winter:

Creating Scents for Specific Purposes

Meditation/Focus:

Sleep/Relaxation:

Energy/Uplift:

Romance/Sensuality:

Conclusion

Creating plant-based scents without essential oils is an ancient craft that connects us directly to the botanical world. By understanding the chemistry of aromatic compounds, mastering extraction techniques, and appreciating the art of composition, you can create sophisticated, long-lasting, complex fragrances that rival any commercial product.

This is slow perfumery – it requires time, experimentation, and patience. But the results are deeply rewarding: scents that are uniquely yours, made from plants you’ve grown or gathered, using methods that have been refined over millennia.

Start simple, be patient with yourself, and trust your nose. The journey from a simple lavender sachet to a complex, multi-layered signature scent is one of gradual discovery and growing confidence. Every extraction teaches you something new about how plants work, how scents evolve, and what you truly love.

May your home and body smell of the earth itself – complex, beautiful, and alive.

Sources & References

Arctander, S. (1960). Perfume and flavour Materials of Natural Origin. Allured Publishing. (The historical reference for natural perfume materials)

Calkin, R. R., & Jellinek, J. S. (1994). Perfumery: Practice and Principles. Wiley. (Academic foundation of perfume design)

Curtis, T., & Williams, D. G. (2009). Introduction to Perfumery (2nd ed.). Micelle Press. (Comprehensive modern reference)

Groom, N. (1997). The New Perfume Handbook (2nd ed.). Springer. (Historical and modern techniques)

Poucher, W. A. (1991). Poucher’s Perfumes, Cosmetics and Soaps (9th ed., 3 vols.). Springer. (Classic technical reference)

Lawless, J. (2013). The Encyclopedia of Essential Oils (2nd ed.). Conari Press. (Chemistry of aromatic compounds)

Tisserand, R., & Young, R. (2014). Essential Oil Safety (2nd ed.). Churchill Livingstone. (Safety data and compound analysis)

Green, J. (2007). The Herbal Medicine-Maker’s Handbook: A Home Manual. Crossing Press. (Traditional extraction methods)

Grieve, M. (1931). A Modern Herbal. Dover Publications. (Historical plant uses and preparations)

Dodd, G. H., & Squirrell, D. J. (2000). The Scented Ape: The Biology and Culture of Human Odour. Cambridge University Press. (Science of scent perception)

Ryman, D. (1991). Aromatherapy: The Encyclopedia of Plants and Oils. Piatkus. (Plant profiles and extraction)

Aftel, M. (2001). Essence and Alchemy: A Natural History of Perfume. North Point Press. (Historical context of natural perfumery)

New Zealand Plant Conservation Network. (2024). Native Plant Database. https://www.nzpcn.org.nz

Brooker, S. G., Cambie, R. C., & Cooper, R. C. (1987). New Zealand Medicinal Plants. Heinemann. (NZ native plant chemistry)

Riley, M. (1994). Māori Healing and Herbal. Viking Sevenseas NZ. (Rongo→ Māori traditional knowledge)

Crowe, A. (2004). Which Native Tree? Penguin Books NZ. (NZ plant identification)

International Fragrance Association (IFRA). (2024). IFRA Standards Library. https://ifrafragrance.org (Current safety standards)

Royal New Zealand College of General Practitioners. (2022). Rongoā Māori Practice Guidelines. (Cultural considerations for using taonga plants)

Mark, G. T., & Lyons, A. C. (2010). “Māori healers’ views on wellbeing: The importance of mind, body, spirit, family and land.” Social Science & Medicine, 70(11), 1756-1764. (Cultural context)

Buckle, J. (2015). Clinical Aromatherapy (3rd ed.). Churchill Livingstone. (Modern clinical applications and safety)

Rongoā Māori Disclaimer: This guide does not represent rongoā Māori preparation methods or traditional Māori medicine-making. Rongoā Māori is a complete healing system with its own protocols, karakia (prayers), and cultural practices that cannot be separated from te ao Māori (the Māori worldview). For rongoā Māori knowledge and treatment, please consult qualified rongoā practitioners through Te Paepae Motuhake or other appropriate Māori health services.

Medical Disclaimer: This guide is for educational purposes only and is not medical advice. The scenting methods described are for creating ambient fragrances and personal scents, not for therapeutic treatment of health conditions. Always ensure proper plant identification before use, especially when foraging wild plants. If you are pregnant, nursing, have allergies, respiratory conditions, or sensitive skin, consult with a qualified healthcare provider before using scented preparations. When using plants with cultural significance (particularly taonga plants in rongoā Māori), approach with respect, seek appropriate permissions, and acknowledge their importance to Māori culture. Keep all scenting materials away from children and pets. Conduct patch tests before applying any new scented product to skin. The author and publisher assume no liability for any adverse reactions, injuries, or losses resulting from the use of information in this guide. The information presented represents current scientific understanding, which continues to evolve.

Note on Pricing: All prices mentioned in this guide are approximate and based on New Zealand suppliers as of January 2026. Prices vary by supplier, season, and market conditions. We recommend checking current prices with your local suppliers.

The Public Herbarium is built on a foundation of scientific integrity, transparency, and care. Research sources are referenced throughout the site wherever possible. Content creation is assisted by AI tools and carefully reviewed for accuracy.